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Map
of Bangli
The district of Bangli is colored with its spread of volcanic highlands
with bubbling Hot Springs and lush rice fields. The volcanic mountains
slope down to the sea near Tejakula in Buleleng and Tianyar while
the rice growing areas overlook Klungkung and Gianyar. A great number
of small villages are scattered this town through Gianyar, via either
Tampaksiring or the main road branching east from Gianyar through
rice fields, redbrick entrances along village streets and pule and
giant Banyan trees towering above you. As the highland area, Bangli
is the source of many Bali's rivers. Founded in 1204 AD, Bangli
town is the sleepy administrative center, with the usual Brahmin
palaces and mansions, which come alive during festival days.
The Puri or palaces of the royal families attract tourists for
their magnificently beautiful architecture. The most prominent among
the palaces is the Puri Denpasar, the palace of the last king of
Bangli who died three decades ago, and a pavilion of the puri has
been remodeled into a small hotel.
Beside the palace, Pura Kehen, the most beautiful temple in the
whole of Bali is considered as the landmark of Bangli. As the state
temple of the old Bangli Kingdom, Pura Kehen occupies the site of
an earlier temple, which dates back to the 9th century. There are
eight terraces built into the forested slope of a hill. The first
five terraces are the outer courtyards; the sixth, the lower middle
court; the seventh, the upper middle court, and the eighth, the
inner Jeroan. A flight of 38 stairs lead to the meru-shaped gate
between rows of statue of characters from the shadow play story.
Overlooking the gate is the threatening heald of Kala, guardian
of the underworld. There is a splendid shrine with eleven roofs
dedicated to the God of fire, the resident temple god.
Panglipuran, two kilometers from Pura Kehen, in a small village
restored by the local government to represent a 'typical' Balinese
village. From Bangli eastwards it is a beautiful drive towards Karangasem
and the Besakih 'mother temple' via a seemingly unending succession
of hills, valleys and rice terraces. When you take the main road
northwards to Kintamani and the volcanic scenery of Batur, the most
spectacular panorama on the island awaits you.
Bangli's mountainous region center around the spectacular volcanic
crater (or caldera) of Mount Batur, which last erupted in 1994.
Mount Batur itself is actually just a small volcano, but its setting
is in the heart of a huge crater 14km in diameter. Close to the
volcano is the largest crescent-shaped Batur lake, all surrounded
by the high walls of the crater rim. The important Pura Ulun Danu
Batur pays homage to the life giving quality of the lake, which
is considered a sacred water catchment.
As the road elevates steadily from Bangli or Tampaksiring, nothing
in the surrounding Grey landscape of bushes and garden plots suggests
the presence of a volcano. But over one smaller ridges a dizzying
view awaits the eyes, encompassing the crater and beyond. From Penelokan,
the main road runs right round the rim towards Kintamani, the panorama
shifting as you circle around the crater.
The sheer size of the crater conjures up images of the massive eruption
of the original Mount Batur taking place tens of thousand years
ago. The volcano is still active today's as Balinese all over the
island who still remember the great eruption of 1917 will testify.
It claimed thousands of lives and destroyed hundred of temples.
Old people might tell you this was "the year when the world
shook". Local population to be relocated, along with several
of their temples is including one of the main Bali temples, Pura
Ulun Danu. Initially inside the huge crater, this temple has been
relocated to the top of the ridge overlooking it. Here it now offers
an impressive view of Mount Batur.
For a complete panoramic view, you can drive half the circumference
of the crater along its upper rim. The highest point is Bukit Penulisan,
one of the most ancient of Bali's temples that contains the remains
of carvings from the earliest Buddhist period. From here the road
continues sloping down towards Kubutambahan and Singaraja.
One very interesting excursion in Batur is the climb down the inside
of the crater from Penelokan to Kedisan. You can then drive around
the smaller Mount Batur, through Songan, and to Toya Bungkah, across
the lake on a boat to a Bali Aga village called Trunyan. This place
is notorious for its mortuary traditions, instead of cremating the
dead, as a Balinese do throughout most of the island, the Trunyan
communities leave the bodies to decompose naturally in a special
cemetery.
There are also Hot Springs and lodgings in Toya Bungkah. From Songan
there is a beautiful trek to Tianyar to the north coast of the island.
The adventure traveler may even wish to climb Mount Batur itself.
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